Improve WiFi

Possible solution

Your WiFi might be the problem.

The sections below each look at a different aspect of WiFi performance, from signal strength through to the hardware itself. Each one explains what to look for and ends with the actions worth taking. You don't need to work through everything, most WiFi problems are solved (or at least confirmed) by the first couple of sections.

Signal strength and placement

Wireless signals are affected by interference from walls, other electronic devices, and even people. The simplest diagnostic is also the cheapest: move closer to the wireless router or access point (AP) and see if the problem goes away. If it does, you're dealing with signal strength or placement rather than anything more exotic.

You can put numbers on this without installing anything, because both Windows and Mac have a signal check built in:

Windows

Open Command Prompt and run

netsh wlan show interfaces

Note the Signal (%) and Transmit rate (Mbps) lines in the results.

Mac

Hold Option and click the WiFi icon in the menu bar. Note the RSSI (dBm) and Tx Rate (Mbps) figures.

Take a reading close to the AP, and another wherever you're having problems.

These Signal/RSSI numbers tells you how strongly the router's signal is reaching your device. On Windows it's shown as a percentage, where higher is better. On Mac it's shown as RSSI, which is always a negative number where closer to zero is stronger (-50 dBm is better than -70 dBm).

Use whichever column matches your machine. The figures are a guide, and vary a little between manufacturers.

The rate figure is the connection speed your device and router have currently agreed on. This a useful bottom line, because distance, interference, and hardware limitations all show up in it. A handy comparison is: if the rate is comfortably above your broadband speed, WiFi probably isn't your bottleneck.

What to do:

• Test from right next to the AP. If the problem disappears, it's signal or placement.
• Take signal readings in the problem spots and compare them against the table above.
• If readings are poor, try relocating the AP higher up, more central, and away from thick walls and metal.
• For persistent dead spots, add extra access points. In larger buildings, consider commissioning a WiFi heatmap survey to find the best AP placement for seamless coverage.

Noise and interference

A device can show a strong signal but still perform badly if background noise from other nearby devices is drowning it out. What matters isn't the noise level on its own, but the noise relative to your signal strength — known as the Signal to Noise Ratio (SNR).

Windows doesn't expose noise readings, but on a Mac you can see the noise level by Option-clicking the WiFi icon in the menu bar. To calculate SNR, subtract the noise from the signal: RSSI − Noise. Note that both are negative numbers, but should produce a positive number.

Noise problems are far more common on the 2.4 GHz band, and the usual suspects are microwaves, cordless phones, baby monitors, and old Bluetooth gear.

What to do:

• On a Mac, calculate your SNR and check it against the table above. Your router's admin panel may show its own SNR.
• If SNR is low, look for interference sources near the AP or your device such as microwaves, cordless phones, baby monitors and then move or eliminate them.
• Try switching to the 5 GHz or 6 GHz band, which are far less prone to this kind of interference (see the frequency section below).

Channel congestion

Each frequency band is divided into individual channels. If your neighbours are all using the same channel as you, you may experience intermittent slowdowns or high latency, even when signal strength looks fine.

Many modern routers and APs manage channel selection automatically. If yours doesn't, it's worth checking how crowded your airspace is with a scanning tool:

• NetSpot (Windows/Mac)
• WiFi Explorer (Mac)
• WiFi Explorer Lite (Windows)

What to do:

• Check whether your router handles channel selection automatically. If it does, you can usually leave it alone.
• If it doesn't, scan your airspace with one of the tools above and see how busy your current channel is.
• Find a quieter channel and switch to it in your router's admin panel.

Frequency bands

WiFi operates over three main frequency bands: 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz, and, on newer devices, 6 GHz.

• 2.4 GHz — Longer range, but slower speeds.
• 5 GHz — Faster speeds, but shorter range. A good choice if you're close to the AP.
• 6 GHz — Similar performance to 5 GHz, but far less crowded since it's a newer standard with fewer devices using it.

Many APs combine 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz onto a single SSID (WiFi name) and automatically select the best band for each device — a feature known as band steering. This doesn't always get it right: your devices may support the faster 5 GHz frequency but actually get more reliable performance on 2.4 GHz.

What to do:

• Experiment with which band each problem device is on. Don't assume the automatic choice is the right one.
• If your AP supports it, split the bands into separate SSIDs (e.g. "John's WiFi 2.4 GHz" and "John's WiFi 5 GHz") so you can force specific devices onto a specific frequency. Some devices also let you set a frequency preference directly.
• These settings live in your router's admin panel. If you're not sure how to change them, contact an IT professional, or ask your ISP, as they may be willing to help.

WiFi standards and hardware

If signal, noise, channels, and frequency all check out but speeds still fall short, the limiting factor may be the WiFi standard your hardware supports. Older devices and access points can only use older standards, which are typically slower and less reliable. Remember that both the AP and the device need to support a given standard for you to see its benefits.

• WiFi 4 (802.11n) — Up to 600 Mbps, typical speeds 50–250 Mbps. Supports both 2.4 GHz (better range) and 5 GHz (faster) frequencies, but is less efficient and struggles when many wireless devices are connected at once.
• WiFi 5 (802.11ac) — Up to 6.9 Gbps, typical speeds 300–900 Mbps. Handles more devices better, but typical real-world speeds can still be slower than your internet connection.
• WiFi 6 (802.11ax) — Up to 9.6 Gbps, typical speeds 600 Mbps–1.5 Gbps. Fast and reliable enough for most uses in 2026, and generally sufficient for consumer broadband, though it may be a bottleneck for higher-speed business connections.
• WiFi 7 (802.11be) — Up to 46 Gbps theoretical maximum. Future-proof and faster than most internet connections, but currently only supported by the latest high-end consumer devices.

What to do:

• Find out which standard your AP and your devices support — the weakest link sets the ceiling.
• Compare that standard's typical real-world speeds against your broadband speed. If the WiFi standard is the slower of the two, it's your bottleneck.
• Upgrade the weakest link first. For most homes and small offices in 2026, WiFi 6 is the sensible target; WiFi 7 is only worth it if your devices and internet connection can actually use it.